Garage Door Spring Repair, Done Right the First Time

Swapping a torsion spring means winding down the old one safely, pulling it off the shaft, measuring wire diameter, coil length, and inside diameter against the door's actual weight, and winding in the replacement to the right number of turns. Get the wind count wrong and the door is either too heavy to lift by hand or slams down on its own. We also check the cables, drums, and bearing plates while the spring is off, since a spring that snapped from age often means those parts are close behind it - they were installed the same year, under the same tension, in the same weather. One honest limit here: if the springs are an odd or discontinued size, sometimes left over from a builder-grade door installed decades ago, we may not have that exact spring on the truck and need a day to source it. We'll tell you that up front rather than force a mismatch onto your door.

A lot of the housing across this service area was built between 1938 and 2005, with the bulk of it going up in the 1960s and '70s across the 34-plus neighborhoods we cover, from Columbine Knolls and Fort Logan close in to Wheat Ridge and Berkley further out. Torsion springs are rated by cycle count, not calendar years, but age and weather both shorten that life. This is a severe cold climate zone, and a steel spring that flexes thousands of times a year contracts harder in sub-freezing mornings, adding stress right at the point where it's already fatigued. Houses from that original building boom are now 50 to 85 years old, and most still have their second or third spring, not their first. If your door was built with the house, the spring on it now almost certainly isn't original - but it may be overdue regardless of when it was last replaced, because cold-weather cycling adds up faster than people expect.